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COMPARISON

Press versus compression: what can be buried

Updated: 2026-08-19
There is one difference: a press joint is permanent, and it can be buried; a compression joint is serviceable, and therefore has to stay reachable. The rest is tool cost and speed.

Point by point

CriterionPress fittingCompression fitting
Toolingpress jawstwo spanners
Fitting costdearercheaper
Can be buriedyesno, needs access
Servicingnonere-tighten after the first heat-up, check once a year, re-tighten again if it weeps
Speed on siteseconds per jointabout a minute per joint
Taking apartcut it outundo with a spanner
Typical mistakeskipped calibration, or wrong jaw profileover-tightened and crushed the ring, or under-tightened
✓ press — permanent two crimp bands can be buried, needs no servicing compression — serviceable swivel nut split ring needs access: re-tightened with a spanner

The section shows the difference: press deforms the sleeve for good, compression squeezes a ring — and that ring can be squeezed again.

The jaw profile (TH, U, H, B — every maker has its own) must match the fitting — press tools are not universal.

Use press when

  • Anything going into a wall, a screed or a sealed duct: you won't get back to it.
  • Many joints in a row — the tool pays for itself in speed over volume.
  • Concealed pipework in a flat, where a leak means repairing a neighbour's ceiling too.

Use compression when

  • Exposed runs: connections to a radiator, boiler or washing machine.
  • A one-off repair or tie-in, where buying press jaws for two joints makes no sense.
  • A temporary arrangement that will be taken apart later.

Mistakes that cause leaks

Burying a compression fitting because “it's tightened well”.
Compression joints are designed to be re-tightened. Only press, welded or soldered joints go inside a wall.
Pressing without calibrating the cut.
The calibrator chamfers the edge and restores roundness — otherwise the rim slices the O-ring.
Pressing without checking the pipe is fully home.
Fittings have an inspection window or a depth mark: the pipe must show all the way round. A short-inserted pipe holds until the first water hammer.
Pressure-testing without counting the joints.
A forgotten un-pressed fitting is the second most common leak. Count the joints as you go: by eye, an un-pressed fitting looks much like a pressed one.
Cranking a compression nut “fully home” with a longer bar.
The ring deforms and stops sealing. Tighten by hand until it stops, then about one more turn with a spanner on 16–20 mm and three quarters of a turn on 26–32 mm — the exact figure is in the fitting maker's instructions.
Pressure-testing and closing the wall the same day.
The standard test is ten minutes at 1.5× working pressure, but before closing the wall it's sensible to hold the system at working pressure for a day: a weeping press joint doesn't always show straight away.

Common questions

Can a compression fitting be buried in a wall?

No. A compression joint is designed to be re-tightened when it starts to weep, and has to stay accessible. Only press, welded or soldered joints go into a wall or a screed.

Do I really have to calibrate the cut before pressing?

Always. The calibrator chamfers the edge and restores the pipe to round — otherwise the edge slices the O-ring and the joint starts weeping months later, from behind the tiles.

Is it worth buying press jaws for a couple of joints?

No: press jaws pay for themselves on volume. For two exposed joints — a radiator tail or a washing machine — compression fittings and two spanners are enough.

Related pages
Pipe materials → Pipe diameters →
Check it in the builder, not at the store
Lay your assembly out in easy-pipe — parts only connect when diameter and thread genuinely match.
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